View from Oban Bothy

View from Oban Bothy

Wednesday, 7 June 2023

St Cuthbert’s Way…the rest, 24th April 2023

The previous night’s pitch on the banks of the R Tweed wasn’t the best, but it was good enough. I hadn’t realised that, across the river, was Dryburgh Abbey – it was just visible through the trees.

After my 2nd breakfast of cheese & onion pastie in St Boswells, I set off in the bright sunshine.







The long, straight track of Dere Street soon presented itself - although every time I looked over my should I could see the twin lumps of the Eildon Hills.









The stone at Ancrum Moor offered a very pleasant sit down, the sun was blazing down, and the birdies were tweeting loudly. It was all rather lovely.



I didn’t come across anyone else walking the route, although I did meet up with another backpacker out for a few days – he just happened to be on the Way, he was walking t’other way.

I left Dere Street at Monteviot House, where I crossed the River Teviot by a lovely footbridge.









I spotted a deer (not a Dere) in the distance, but it soon scarpered when it spotted me.

That night I camped by Oxnam Water, it was a really lovely spot: picnic tables and chairs, flat grass, running water, sheltered….not much not to like – apart from the barking deer that woke me up in the early hours!





I was packed up and away by around 9am, the sun was still shining, the birdies were still singing, and that barking deer had buggered off.

Heading east (east is good) across pleasantly undulating terrain, I came across the 15th century Cessford Castle. The Border Reivers weren’t at home.











Otterburn (not THAT Otterburn, another one) came next, followed by a lovely lunch stop at the Morebattle Community Shop. If walking through Morebattle this place is recommended.

Oh, and Morebattle has a quite decent public loo.


It was soon after leaving Morebattle that I cut trail. I was knackered and I really didn’t relish the idea of Wideopen Hill…so I cut trail and headed straight to Kirk Yetholm. I’d intended to camp just south of the village, but instead I headed straight to the Border Hotel where I followed the advice of all experienced walkers – I rehydrated. It was good.










I ended up, on the advice of some lovely local folk I fell in with, pitching on the green, opposite the pub. I slept rather well.

An early start was need the next day – I needed to get to Wooler, and the weather forecast wasn’t brilliant.

I was up at 6am, and away just after 7am. Then it started raining. This wasn’t just rain, this was seriously horrible rain, the sort of rain that wets nearly everything. The camera and phone were packed away in polybags. Both phone and camera survived.

Leaving Kirk Yetholm on tarmac, I was soon on wet, up and downy footpaths that coincided with the last mile of the Pennine Way at Halterburn.

The next couple of hours were dreary – not because of the route, but just because of the horribly wet weather. At Wooler I stopped in a bus shelter to get out of the rain and to grab a bite to eat.











As I left the town, the rain eased off, I crossed the bridge over Wooler Water, then a little later, by the bridge over the River Till.

Now regular followers will know that I’m a bit slow on the uptake, I hadn’t realised that St Cuthbert’s Way was a pilgrimage route, it was just a nice route that I’d had on my bucket list for rather too long. It was therefore something of a surprise when I came across a rather lvely bench seat, offering the opportunity of rest to weary pilgrims…..I was an unwitting, and certainly weary, pilgrim!

The rain had decided to make a brief return, so my (Mars Bar fuelled) rest was a damp one!

St Cuthbert’s Cave was next. Because of the wetness I had the place to myself.







LNT

My intended pitch for the night was recommended to me by Dawn – always a good source of information. Thanks Dawn!

I camped on lovely flat grass, with a water source close by, and it was well hidden from passing walkers – lovely.

The rain had stopped raining so I was able to hang my damp stuff out to dry (a bit) in a warm, gentle breeze.

A home dehydrated meal of Lamb Casserole, followed by home dehydrated stewed rhubarb + instant custard hit the spot.

I slept very well that night.

Next day (Sunday) was to be a short-ish walk towards the coast. I’d intended wild / stealth camping, but looking at the map, things didn’t look promising. My friend Greta, she of saxaphone, flute, and bagpipe fame, had stayed at the Lindisfarne Inn the previous Sunday. She paid £89 for B&B. I thought I’d treat myself – and take the opportunity to dry my kit out properly.

I phoned to check if they had a room, they did – at £143! No thanks. I ended up getting a lift in Berwick where I stayed at the Travelodge….for exactly £100 less – £43….although breakfast wasn’t included.

Next morning I hopped on the bus to where I’d left the route the day before, and walked to the causeway to Lindisfarne.
















LTD and Mike were waiting for me, as soon as the tide receded we headed over to the island. It was a bit surprised to see a number of vehicles crossing whilst the water was still covering the road. apart from anything else, the seawater wouldn’t do their vehicles much good. Oh well.

We found a pub. We had crab butties. We had beer (I had two, Mike had one ‘cos he was driving).

We wandered around the island, visited the priory (the official end of the walk), took photographs, and then headed back to the mainland.

The tide was well out by now, so rather than return via the causeway, we followed the pilgrim’s route – over the sands, following the marker poles. Mike wore wellies, LTD didn’t bother, I wore by walking boots – although I did have my uber-stylish crocs with me, just in case.





That was it. Mike delivered me to Durham where I hopped on the train to get back home, Mike and LTD returned to Crook, all was well.

Thanks to LTD, Mike too, for their company, transport, laughs, and company.

Now to get my backside into gear to backpack the top half of the West Highland Way as a warm-up for this year’s TGO Challenge. I can’t wait!


PS: The photos aren't necessarily in the right order. Take it up with Google / Blogger - it's nowt to do with me.

 

 

 

 

 

Thursday, 20 April 2023

St Cuthbert's Way...in the beginning

The adventure started with a train to Berwick, then a funny old bus journey to Melrose.

Following Mick and Gayle's mantra of never passing a tea shop, my walk was ever so slightly delayed :-)

It was a bit of a tug up the Eildon Hills bealach, but nothing a rufty-tufty Challenger wouldn't take in their stride......but I'm not rufty-tufty. Ho hum.

Bowden Burn was my handrail for a couple of miles, at Newtown St Boswells I picked up the meandering  River Tweed.

Light was beginning to fade so I started looking for a suitable camp spot. The ground was covered in wild garlic, the aroma was wonderful but the plants were so tall it made finding a flat bit very difficult.

Eventually I found a lumpy bit of ground on the river bank, on the other side of the river from the ruins of Dryburgh Abbey. If you look carefully, squint a bit, then use your imagination, you may spot it in the last photo.

Tent up, a light meal, then lights out at 10pm....I drifted off to the 10pm news on BBC R4.

Up and away next morning, I treated myself to a delicious cheese & onion pastie in St Boswells.....but then I found this tea shop.

Well it would be rude not to ...

 
Part 2, the rest, click here.

Sunday, 12 March 2023

Two Crosses Circuit Challenge 2023

An East Lancs LDWA production

It was all Judith’s idea, she made me do it. That’s my side of the story anyway.

We met up at around 7.40am (the one in the morning) on a slightly damp Sunday, at the event cetre in Tottington – halfway between Bury (where all Black Puddings is made) and Rambottom (not a ram in sight).

It wasn’t damp enough to need wet-legs. Gaiters, on the other hand (or leg) were pretty well essential…..this being the muddy West Pennine Moors.


Signing in



Alma & Dave in catering mode


The Start

At 8am we set off on the 17 mile route, almost enthusiastically – ‘almost’ because we were both tired and decidedly unfit.




The first checkpoint at Turton Tower (5.8 miles) always seems a lot further away than I remember from previous years. Norman’s usually ample supply of Jelly Babies was twindling…although that was more than likely because we were lagging behind most of the rest of the field.


Viv, Caterer Extraordinaire!

The most important checkpoint at Bartridge Barn Car Park (7.6 miles) never fails to impress – the food on offer is just tremendous….although having said that, the lack of Greek Salad and the delicious trifle were both missing this year. There was a very good reason for this though: Viv, caterer extraordinaire, has been very busy at home recently. She promised me that things will return to normal next year!





Orrel Cote Farm, CP5

On to pass the Strawbury Duck, where we didn’t stop for a beer, and then to CP5: Orrel Cote Farm. Orange cordial, more Jelly Babies, and Jaffa Cakes were taken on board.


It was after leaving here that it all went horribly wrong. Maybe we were yakking too much (most likely), or maybe we were just a bit tired, but somehow we went off route. This was an Embarrassingly Bad Thing: Judith and I have done this route many times so there really wasn’t any excuse….even more embarrassing, some walkers were following us!

A bit of map work soon got us back on route, through Crowthorne village, and on to pass the maggot farm.

Bull Hill came into view, although we overshot our turn-off.

Getting to Bull Hill involved crossing the morass of squelchy, muddy, peaty badlands: Black Moss & Wet Moss. The Good Thing was that a ‘safe’ route was marked with pole-mounted little flags. We still got muddy.

The Naughty Corner checkpoint was next – if you know, you know. Judith fortified herself with something alcoholic whilst I relied on Jelly Babies and Liquorice Allsorts.


The Maggot Farm

Julie Spence's photo of us at the Naughty Corner CP




Wobbling off uphill (Judith, not me) we traversed the MOD firing range of Holcombe Moor – we successfully avoided being hit by stray bullets, and didn’t pick up one piece of unexploded ordnance.

My, we’re good!

Peel Tower, above Ramsbottom



Just some of the 114 East Lancs LDWA steps....


...and a bridge too!

Next came Peel Tower, and then the descent by the new, shiny, much improved Redisher Woods 114 East Lancs LDWA steps ….much credit to East Lancs LDWA for getting this section sorted. In years past this descent has been, er, challenging.

Somewhere in my collection is a photograph of a certain young lady’s very mucky derriere following her unintentionally fast descent down what was then a ski-slope of mud.

We could see the spire of Greenmount Church, just a couple of hundred meters from the finish, in the distance.

On the homeward straight now, we could almost taste the soup (and Manchester Tart) waiting for us as we crossed Greenmount Golf Course.

A couple of minutes later, after checking in, we were sat down, tucking into the most delicious leek & potato soup, followed by equally delicious (and the capitals are important here) Manchester Tart…all washed down with lashings of ginger beer....I mean tea.

Our little diversions meant we ended up walking a little further than the 17.3 miles…not much though. Well not too much.

A good day out for both Judith and I (thanks for dragging me round!), we both needed the stretch, plus it was really good to catch up. She was very good company, not giving me that much of a hard time at all….even when I screwed up the nav.

Our next catch-up will involve a beer (or two) as well as a walk. And we’ll know exactly where we’re we going. Probably Frodsham’s Helter Skelter unless Judith’s got any better ideas.

Where we ended up walking:


Thanks to EVERYONE at East Lancs LDWA for putting on another brilliant event, I’m looking forward to 2024…and the return of Greek salad, and trifle.

NB: Not all the photos are mine, quite a few were purloined from the East Lancs LDWA FB page - including the Julie's photo of Judith and I at the Naughty Corner CP.

Lyme Park to Buxton, 18th July 2024

  A text message from my mate Vinny suggested we might go for a bit of a walk, he quite fancied Lyme Park to Buxton. It promised to be a ...