23rd September, Via de la Plata, to Granja de Moreuela

A hungry start to the day

We headed down for breakfast at around 7am. Alas all the bread had been snaffled by two ‘voleur de pain des femmes’, leaving all the other peregrinos breakfastless.

We know who you are…and where you’re from!

We set out (hungrily) to meet up with the hopefully recovered Matthew in Granja de Moreuela…try saying that after a night in the pub!

 Ermita de la Virgen del Castillo

One of the features of this section of the walk is the huge number of really interesting buildings – the old churches especially. The bad news is that most of these churches are locked to prevent bread  stuff being stollen stolen.

I don’t hold a grudge. Honest. But we were hungry.

‘The Stand Pipe’…more of a bothy really. Perhaps I should tell them. 

Lots of irrigation channels around here, perhaps how the building got it’s name.

The ruins of Castrotarafe

Castrotarafe has more than a bit of history behind it: reputedly dating from Roman times, it was inhabited until the eighteenth century. It’s castle was the seat of the Knights of the Order of Santiago. It’s one-time commercial claim to fame was that it controlled traffic across the River Esla.

And you thought I knew nowt….just goes to show, eh?

 Vanessa posing by one the many stone information plaques on the route, this one in Fontanillas de Castro

The parting of the ways: the Via de la Plate becomes El Camino Sanabres if heading off west, a more direct route to Santiago de Compostella. The alternative route northwards to Astorga eventually joins the much busier Camino Frances.

We’d arranged to meet up with an injury-recovered Matthew in Granja de Moreuela – rather hoping that he’s be able to get a bus from Zamora. After a quick beer in the local bar, which was also where we had to register to gain access to the Albergue, the man himself rolled up – guitar slung over his shoulder.

How not to compose a photograph: the Albergue in Granja de Moreuela, with a well fed French lady (she eats too much bread you know) and Patrice…also French, but he doesn’t eat too much bread at all. 

Matthew is an accomplished singer – songwriter with a couple of CDs to his name. He writes some good stuff. Have a listen to some of his songs, you won’t be disappointed.

The Albergue was quite full that night, a group of cycling peregrinos rolled up to join the throng. We had a pleasant evening in the restaurant: a good meal, a couple of beers (or was it vino tinto?) and excellent company. It was good to have Matthew back on board.