Thursday 9th
May
The previous evening we met up in Wetherspoons, other Challengers joined us which was good.
Mick had teamed up with Gavin, they headed over to Lismore on the ferry, whilst I teamed up with Baby Croydon – aka Tracey.
A night in a SYHA bunk didn’t help my wobbliness much – A Plan was called for: I made an appointment to see a local doctor, but that wasn’t going to be until the early evening – when I should be camping beyond Taynuilt. I ended up walking as far as Taynuilt, then hopping on the train back to Oban, in time for my appointment….and so it came to pass.
Armed with a supply of killer-strength antibiotics I returned to Oban’s SYHA for another night of unbridled luxury. In a bunk.
Friday 10th
May
After a light breakfast in Wetherspoon’s Tracey and I travelled back to Taynuilt on the train, from where we continued our Challenge journey.
Following the eastern shore of
Glen Kinglass was next, although we ended up cutting the day short. We found a pleasant spot to plant our tents: fairly flat and grassy (enough), water close by – not much not to like.
Oh, and there were cuckoos – rather more than I’d heard in previous years.
I slept heavily – probably because I was so knackered.
Saturday 11th
May
Feeling slightly better (maybe the antibiotics were kicking in), we were up and away after a bit of breakfast.
We came across some lovely wild life today: deer, tadpoles, newts, frogs – and cuckoos.
Passing Loch Dochard, where the Pieman and I had camped a
few years ago, we soon joined the
We joined the masses of WHW walkers heading north to Kingshouse, few were carrying kit, most seemed to be using a luggage transfer service. Not for us though, we’re rufty-tufty Challengers, and we were carrying full kit.
It was along this stretch that we came across a young girl, at first we though she was alone, but after a minute or so her mother, Anna, appeared. They were backpacking the route together – Mum carrying all the gear, whilst her 3 year old daughter scoped out suitable spots to pitch their tent. I was well impressed!
By the time we arrived at Kingshouse, we’d caught up with ourselves – we were back on schedule, but it had been a tough day for me.
The ‘campsite’ was fairly full, but we found spaces to pitch. I collected my food parcel from the hotel and took full advantage of the £2 showers, I certainly felt better after that! After a nosh I went into the bar to risk an expensive pint. I’m not entirely sure if that was a good idea – but it didn’t half taste good!
Sunday 12th
May
More cuckoos – probably lurking in the wood.
We started a little later than we’d intended, our Plan was
to get to Rannoch Station by late afternoon – in time to grab a bite to eat,
then to continue eastwards to camp somewhere along the north
That was the Plan.
Off we went, eastwards, on really good track, leaving the West Highland Wayers as they headed west to endure the delights of the Devils Staircase.
On past Black Corries Lodge - I’d love to be able to see the lodge in the flesh, but it’s obscured, surrounded by dense wood land. However: https://www.blackcorries.org/accommodation
5-6km beyond Black Corries, the really good track suddenly
wasn’t so good, it had deteriorated to an often hard to follow footpath. This
wasn’t the end of the world, all we had to do was to continue heading east and
north east, through the woodland alongside the NW
About 500m from Rannoch Station Tracey wondered if the rumbling we’d just heard was a train….but it wasn’t a convincing train sound – it was thunder!
A quick check on the rainfall radar showed extremely heavy rain and lots of flash-bangs were about to descend on us.
Dubh Lochan - taken next morning
No time to waste, we legged it down to the side of Dubh Lochan and found a few flat spots to pitch our tents. We had just enough time to grab some water and throw ourselves into our tents before the heavens opened – and that was us until morning, it hammered down, but the lightning flashes and loud crashes of thunder were spectacular!
Monday 13th
May
The previous night’s storm had put us behind schedule again. We headed over to Rannoch Station Tearoom for a bite to eat before heading off, eastwards – on tarmac.
I’d pitched my tent behind
We stopped for a sit down just before
It was a slog along the south
Other Challengers were camping there too, including the ever-cheerful Kevin – this wasn’t the last time we’d meet up with him on this Challenge.
Tuesday 14th
May
First stop was the Kinloch Rannoch Post Office to collect a food parcel and to buy some lunch-type stuff, including drinks. The day started warm and sunny, it was soon to get very hot and sunny, we didn’t want to risk dehydration – I’ve been there and done that, it’s no fun.
A car pulled up as we left Kinloch Rannoch, it was Challenger Alan Dutton, sadly not on this year due to a knee injury – it was lovely to catch up with him again.
We followed Errochty Water in search of somewhere to camp, not an easy call. We eventually found a scratty bit of land next to the river at Cuiltaloskin. At least we had a nice water source at hand.
Wednesday 15th
May
On to Struan and the lovely Old Struan, following the River Garry.
It was getting hot, hotter as the day wore on. By the time we arrived in Blair Athol it was blisteringly hot. A nice tea room / café appeared, butties, cold drinks, ice creams were consumed with enthusiasm. The café closed, but as we were sat outside in the garden there was no rush to leave. We decided to stay put until it cooled off – thankfully there was a little shop around the corner, we topped up with cold drinks and yet more ice cream.
Around 5pm we headed off, up Glen Tilt – my first time, it won’t be my last, it was beautiful! As the late afternoon / early evening cooled we were able to pick up the pace without fear of blowing a head gasket.
After a few hours of walking in the cooler air we found a lovely spot to camp, just beyond Marble Lodge. Two other had got there before us, but there was plenty of room for our two tents.
Thursday 16th
May
Due to the previous day’s late finish we had a later start.
It was already getting hot, by the time we got to our intended lunch stop at
The next few hours were spent just chilling in the hot sun….feet cooling in the river, taking in the rays, and marvelling at the overheated Challengers marching past us.
At 6pm we shouldered out packs and headed NE, continuing up
Glen Tilt. We’d planned to camp beyond
The bothy, inside and out:
Loch Dochard is my favourite place and Glen Tilt is well known to me and Sheila, we walked it and cycled it and it’s where Sheila fell off the bike. As you say, it’s a stunning walk and the new Red Bothy looks fab.
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