TGOC2023 No15: Pt 2, Dalwhinnie to Lochcallater

 

                            Sir Dave the Beaver

I breakfasted in the bunkhouse, muesli again, and then Tracy and I had a second breakfast in The Apiary Cafe – it might have been considered rude to pass such a lovely place without calling in.

Dalwhinnie Distillery

Tracy and I had decided to avoid the climb over to Gaik Lodge by Sgor Dearg, instead we headed NE, following to course of Allt na Fearne – big mistake! The ground was very rough and made for very slow going. The climb would have been stiff, but infinitely more doable.

We eventually got down to the Allt Bhran, the bridge I’d used in 2005, and was still marked on the current OS map, was long gone, probably washed away. We were a bit relieved to find a very substantial replacement bridge – saving us a river crossing that we really didn’t need.

We camped close to Bhran Cottage, and it only rained a bit. I was impressed with Tracy’s tent, a Lanshan – it was huge, and didn’t weigh much at all.

We discovered what the local children do for entertainment:

 

Next morning we set off, following the course of the Allt Bhran. We had to cross and re-cross the river, and Tracy didn’t fall in very much at all.

I’m no fan of building roads over the wild parts of the highlands, but the new road through the forestry by Allt na Cuilce was very welcome.

 

 More Challengers:

Crossing the Feshie was easy-peasy, the river level was the lowest I’ve seen, and Tracy didn't even fall in once. 

Tracy not falling in the Feshie...

....still not falling in

We stopped for a sit down and a cuppa on the east bank of the river, and were looking forward to what we were both expecting to be a pleasant bimble along Glen Feshie and on to Glen Geldie.

Our expectations were most certainly not met! It was a real battle through the scrubby woodland, the LRT on the 1:25k OS map simply wasn’t there. In desparation the GPS was pressed into service, we were exactly where we thought we were – and that wasn’t lost! Nothing for it but to follow the needle to get us out of the jungle.

 This American Challenger came to our rescue! He was kind enough to lead us through the jungle, using the route he'd taken, and from where we were able to continue. What a gent - he even took our photograph!

When we eventually escaped we came across Liz, a first timer, camping on a beautufull spot that I’d eyed previously. 

 

Moving more quickly now, it was clear that we wouldn’t make our intended pitch, the renovated building at the confluence of Geldie Burn and Bynack Burn, we’d had enough.

  

We crossed the Eidart Bridge and soon found a flat(ish) bit of ground and pitched our tents. It wasn’t an ideal spot, but it had to do.

 

On reflection we’d have been better off fording the Eidart rather than yomping up to the bridge, the river was fairly low.

 

Fast and Light closing in

Whatever, stopping short meant the next day, into Braemar, would be longer than planned.

It’s strange how the passing of time distorts memories: I remember the walk through Glen Feshie as being a doddle, and so the walk from the Eidart to White Bridge – I’m damned sure that someone has lengthened that route!

Not a Challenger

 

 The non-ruin at Ruigh nan Clach

 Yet another Challenger

Our audience

 

White Bridge 

White Bridge had been deserted by the Challengers who had no doubt camped there the previous night – they were probably whooping it up in Braemar….or drinking tea and sharing the issued biscuit at Mar Lodge.

 Victoria Bridge

We trudged into Braemar (via Mar Lodge) and I checked into Kate’s whilst Tracy met up with Mick, they were staying on the campsite.

I was too knackered to even go and see these two!

Kate's wonderful bunkhouse

 

 

Another......Challenger!

 

The Fife Arms, once the focal centre for Challengers, has gone seriously up-market (typically £776 / night for 2 sharing) and has priced itself out of the market for many….although judging by the number of flashy cars parked outside there’s clearly a fair bit of dosh still floating around.

A sad sight 

 

We met up for a nosh at Farquharson’s, then decanted ourselves into the Invercauld Mews where a number of Challengers, including Sir Dave, were taking their rehydration responsibilities very seriously indeed.

 

Superman - across Scotland with a dislocated hip!

Next day we headed up to Callater Lodge – I’d missed calling in there for too many years, so it was lovely to catch up with Bill, Michael, Jeanette, and of course the Challengers who called in for a cup of tea and a scone.

 I camped outside the lodge, I like to have my own space, even if it was raining.

An evening of merriment followed, songs were sung, stories of dering–do were told – like the great sharing of the biscuit at Mar Lodge, and the great company of similar-minded folk was greatly enjoyed. Callater is the highlight of any Challenge route that passes that way.

I camped outside the lodge, I like to have my own space, even if it was raining.             

Yet another memorable evening ended with me getting into my tent, in the pouring rain, at ridiculously late o'clock....and I didn't snore. Honest.

TGOC2023: Number 15, Pt 1, Oban to Dalwhinnie

 

Foreword: This should have been my 16^th Challenge. I had to bail out from last year’s trip – I got to the start but didn’t even get to sign out. At the time, John, my good friend who had recently been treated for an aggressive cancer, had taken a turn for the worse. I got the call the night before I was due to sign out from Dornie.

It was a no-brainer. Next morning, instead of signing out and starting my Challenge, I went home to support him. It’s what you do for your mates.

John lasted the 2 weeks of the Challenge, his last days were in the wonderful St Luke’s Cheshire Hospice. https://www.slhospice.co.uk

My TGOC2023 has to be completed, in memory of John, if nothing else.

 

John McNeill, 27/2/1945 - 26/5/2022

Oban to The Strawberry Farm (if you know, you know)

 

The evening view from Oban’s Corryvreckan

After a day of chilling in Oban c/o The Corryvreckan and Oban SYHA, it was time to hit the trail. 

         Douglas Syme, Bob Allison, and Sue Chalmers          

 (carb loading in the Corryvreckan)

 

 

Bob, dragging himself away from the pub 

 

The Great Wetting of the Boots - it has to be done!

 

 

The Morgans of Cockermouth heading off

My planned route was to follow the track that ran parallel(ish) to the railway line that headed north, but (don’t tell Sue & Ali or I’ll be in serious lumber) because the weather was so glorious, I followed the coast north to cross the Falls of Lora by the Connel Bridge. Okay, there was too much tarmac, but it was really lovely having the sea on my left….and I found a beautiful sandy bay to enjoy a half hour sit down.

Connel Bridge was easily located – but actually getting onto it, for a pedestrian, was another matter - I ended up following the road. 

 

 

 

On t’other side more tarmac awaited, albeit almost traffic-free. It was hot, Factor 50 was plastered on my exposed bits.

Ben Cruachan

 

 

For Dawn, and Alan R

 

I camped at a lovely flat spot on the NW shore of Loch Etive, close to Ardchattan House – I even found a water tap! An inevitable midge attack was foiled by the use of Smidge and Citronella Incense Sticks.  I escaped unscathed, although smelling of Citronella.

 

 Breakfast  brew with a view

LNT

Next morning I was away just after 9am. More tarmac, but not for too long - once again virtually no traffic.

Waste not, want not (see what I did there...?)

I’d previously (2005) walked the SE shore of Loch Etive, it was good going until just after Glen Kinglass, but after that I had to walk on the actual loch shore – it was pebbly and very hard work, hence choosing the NW shore this time. It was good…for a while!

 I rather hope this wasn't Stanley

The footpath along the northern section of the NW shore was probably on the ground, but a lot of it wasn’t visible – it was a matter of bashing through all manner of scrubby undergrowth (over-growth?)

 Issy, my vetter, advised that my intended camp spot may be noisy – it was well-known for fly-camping. Very fortunately the fly-campers weren’t able to drive to the flat bit of grass I found. I was in the company of other backpackers, including Challengers Trevor and Alex Morgan.

The midges were out in force once again, but my defence system once again worked well – I escaped unscathed!

I needed a top-to-toe wash down in my tent, it had been a hot day, and I was more than a bit sweaty….but you really didn’t need to know that!

I slept extraordinarily well, maybe I was a bit tired

To Kingshouse:

I planned to walk up Lairig Gartain, with the proviso that if it was horrible underfoot I’d follow the road.

 It WAS horrible underfoot, so the road it was.

 Tarmac it may have been, but it was lovely. Quite a few folk were ‘wild camping’ on the side of the road. I hope they understood L.N.T., but seeing how many had parked their cars in passing places, I somehow doubt it.

 

The sun shone brightly and hotly, I was glad of my shorts, sun hat, and ample water supply, It was a tired, hot, sweaty, and hungry JJ that rolled into Kingshouse. Thanks to generosity of one D. Williams, I had secured a bed in the bunkhouse – and it was most welcome. I owe David a substantial amount of beer!

Most of the walkers staying in the hotel and the bunkhouse were doing the West Highland Way, although there were some Challengers staying too – including Sue Chalmers and Bob Allison.

My room held something of a surprise: I was sharing with a lady – I’m not too sure who was shocked more. She was expecting to be sharing with a female, whilst I thought I had a room to myself! Anyway it all worked out fine I didn’t snore (obv) – and my room-mate didn’t snore (too much).

 

Next morning’s weather wasn’t quite as lovely as it had been of late, in fact it was a bit horribly wet. It was lovely to meet up with fellow Challenger Kirsten – we chatted whilst it rained all the more. I didn’t end up setting off until past 11am…..I like to talk.

At least by the time I left the rain had eased considerably, although it was a bit chilly. A huge hotel breakfast fuelled my fast walk. My route took me east (always a good choice when on the Challenge) by Black Corries, then by Loch Laddon.

Welcome to Black Corries

My intended lunch stop was Rannoch Station, but my late start meant that I’d not get there until late, so late that they’d be closed! A quick phone call to the cafe assured me of a bite to eat and a cuppa. And so it was.

Rannoch Station

It was lovely to once again catch up with Alex and Trevor Morgan, and also Bob Allison. The rather sad news was that Bob had decided to retire, he was waiting for the train to whisk him off homewards. Bob’s a good bloke, I hope he’s back next year.

A cheese toasty and a mug of tea sorted my hunger as I stayed to chat withBob until his train arrived. The weather by now was quite pleasant.

I left the station and headed to my planned camp spot for the night. It worked out okay, but with it being in forestry there were rather a lot of trees around. Surprising really, I mean, who knew? I really didn’t relish another battle with midges, but the temperature had dropped and there was a bit of a breeze – I was safe.

My late lunch / early tea meant I wasn’t overly hungry, so a quick meal of cous-cous with a sachet of tuna stirred in was just right: tasty and nutritious. It may just have been followed by a delicious pudding of squashed Eccles Cake and custard. Maybe.

LNT

Next morning I set out in mixed weather, but this is Scotland – if you don’t like the weather, stick around – it’ll soon change.

It DID change: I had rain, hail, wind, snow, and hot sunshine, all within a couple of hours. Situation normal…..for Scotland.

I’d been looking forward to seeing Corrour Old Lodge, but it was a disappointing ruin.

 

 A walker was heading towards me, it was Frederic, a fellow Challenger. He was intending to go by Glen Tilt in a few days time.

 

Challenger Adrian was also walking towards Loch Ossian, he was going to Dalwhinnie, same as me, but via a far more circuitous route, I think by Rannoch Station. He was a bit concerned that he’d heard that the hotel at Dalwhinnie was closed – a food parcel was supposedly waiting for him. 

 Loch Ossian

I arrived at the south shore of Loch Ossian in bright sunshine. The last time I was here was on my 2005 Challenge, I remembered it being a grey day. It was also the day I met the lovely David and Margaret Brocklehurst – I was disappointed not to see their names on this year’s list of participants.

Onwards, through the immaculate Corrour Shooting Lodge Estate, I stopped for a breather, taking advantage of the shelter offered by a little hydro-electric power station. I’d only seen two Challengers so far that day – but then, within 15 minutes I was joined by 4 more – including the walking machine that is Hiking Aina. That girl puts in some serious miles!

 

I wandered upwards by Uisge Labhair to my planned camp spot, just below the bealach.

I had to hunt around for a flat, dry spot and eventually found a patch of ground that fitted the bill perfectly, on the banks of the river.

The weather was still changeable, but at least the rain held off.

A home-dehydrated meal of Turkey Korma (turkey dehydrates and rehydrates well, unlike chicken) followed by dried fruit and custard really hit the spot. I drifted off to sleep to the sound of running water.

Next morning dawned a bit grey and damp, nothing a rufty-tufty Challenger couldn’t cope with. I need to be that Challenger.

The weather soon turned wetter, not heavy rain, but that stuff that, given half a chance, would soak everything in sight.

Full waterproofs were donned – and they stayed on for most of the day.

It was a tug up to the bealach, but once up there the downhill bit had me speeding along. I hadn’t bothered eating, relying on a couple of mugs of coffee to kick-start my sorry backside into action. 

My planned first stop of the day was at Culra Bothy, famous for being closed due to asbestos in the structure of the building. It remained unlocked for emergency use.

 

 

 

I sat in the lee of the bothy to break out the muesli and enjoy a late breakfast.

 

‘Fast and Light’ decided to eat inside the bothy – at least they stayed dry!

 

I poked my head inside the bothy before I left, it was much as I remembered back in 2005, very comfortable. Such a shame about the asbestos problem, maybe the MBA can sort it – this fine organisation needs support to carry out it’s good work, you should join, donate, whatever.

I continued NE, in the wetness of the day, towards Loch Pattack (famous for curry sauces)...

 

 The horses of Loch Pattack

 

 

....and then the descent to the ostentatiously tarted-up Ben Alder Lodge. Money, apparently, had been no object in renovating the place.

 The Gatehouse

It was good to catch up with Barbados’s most famous son, William Burton, sitting by the lodge’s gate house. We were both heading to Dalwhinnie but continued separately. I needed to stop for a bit of a breather.

The road alongside Loch Ericht seems to go on forever, and it most certainly wasn’t flat – I’d forgotten that! It took an age to get to Dalwhinnie, but at least the sky had cleared and the rain had stopped.

5 miles or so later, Dalwhinnie, famous for Network Rail closing the level crossing, came into view. It was a bit of a faff finding the new crossing point, but knowing what I know now, I’d have continued to the crossing, gone through a gate onto the station platform and then crossed the track by the station’s footbridge.

I initially intended to camp in the grounds of the hotel, but by good fortune I booked a bed for the night at Lee’s very excellent Old School Bunkhouse – a very comfortable place to stop.

 

Dalwhinnie’s hotel seemed to operate very strange hours, it was most certainly closed when I walked past at 5pm – I hope Adrian managed to get his food parcel.

The hotel garden was now a a building site, absolutely no chance of pitching a tent there – and obviously no chance of a meal.

Other Challengers were also staying in the bunkhouse, including ‘Baby Croydon’, Mick’s daughter, Tracy. We teamed up for a few days – she was great company, she’s definitely her father’s daughter….just don’t ask her what her grandfather does.