View from Oban Bothy

View from Oban Bothy

Friday 9 October 2015

99th Nijmegen Four Days Marches 2015

 

imageImage borrowed from the Vierdaagse website. 

The International Four Day Marches Nijmegen (or Vierdaagse) is the largest marching event in the world. It is organised every year in Nijmegen, Netherlands in mid-July as a means of promoting sport and exercise. Participants walk 30, 40 or 50 km daily depending on their age and gender, and, on completion, receive a royally approved medal (Vierdaagsekruis). The participants are mostly civilians, but there are also a few thousand military participants.

That’s what Wiki says.

What Wiki doesn’t say is how much fun it is walking 160km over four consecutive days in the company of 45,999 other walkers. Basically it’s a 160km party!

I arrived in Nijmegen on Sunday, giving me plenty of time to register at the start point and to have a wander around the town. My last Vierdaagse was in 2007 and the event is still as popular as ever – the whole town was buzzing. Vierdaagse is party time and the good folk of Nijmegen certainly know how to party!

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Day 1, The Day of Elst

Each day is named after the largest town that the route passes through, today that town is Elst which is north of Nijmegen.  

My allocated start time was 6am (the one in the morning) which meant leaving my accommodation on St Annastraat at around 5.30am, giving me plenty of time to get to the start point – and hopefully not be at the back of the queue.

I’m not sure if it was my alarm clock or the rain hammering against the window that woke me. Whatever it was, I rolled out of bed in a gloomy mood. The idea of walking 40km / 25 miles in heavy rain wasn’t very appealing. By the time I’d breakfasted and had my 2nd cup of coffee things were improving, at 5.50am the rain had stopped completely – and that was the last wet that I experienced for the rest of the walking week :-)

At 6am there was a loud cheer from the crowd as the walkers were scanned and sent on their way. Even at that time of the morning there were huge crowds of spectators, most of them seem to have been partying all night – as the week wore on some of their faces became quite familiar.

P1050084P1050088 P1050090Towards the bridge over the River Waal, of Operation Market Garden fame 

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7.20am (6.20am BST), long morning shadows and the first band of the dayimage 

Route choice

The Marches started in 1909 when most of the participants were military, today the military still have a high profile but their numbers have dwindled to around 5,000 – they come from all over the world.

P1050100UN marchers

It was good to meet up with some good mates from the Royal Marines, to say their company is entertaining is an understatement – their quick wit always has me in stitches. I first met this lot through motorcycling and we’ve stayed in touch ever since. Although this was a walk, this bunch of lunatics decided that running a couple of miles of the route might be a bit of a wheeze. I ran with them but that meant nothing – they were shod in full kit, including heavy boots AND they were carrying 10kg+ packs, I was carrying 3kg and was shod in running shoes. Quite barmy, the lot of them.

P1050102Melodeons, lots of them 

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P1050108P1050111P1050112German squaddies

P1050114   One of the many excellent military bands

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P1050124 On the dike, which in 2006, two participants died in the extreme heat

P1050129 A Hercules of the Dutch Air Force flying over the route

P1050132Re-entering Nijmegen – and the end of Day 1

P1050133….followed by a couple of beers

imageActual distance: 40km 

Day 2, The Day of Wijchen

A 5am start may sound like something out of a nightmare but it certainly wasn’t. The weather forecast for the rest of the week was hot and the idea of walking through the hottest part of each day didn’t appeal. So 5am it was, and by swapping my start times with other walkers I managed 5am starts for the rest of the week.

P1050136 4.30am: The queue at the start

P1050137St Niklaas

P1050138  Military participants joining the main 40km route

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One for Alan

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24.8km to go

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Checkpoint

P1050155 The LDWA Irregulars contingent

I hooked up with The Irregulars – although I promised myself that I wouldn’t go drinking with them, I wanted to survive the week! The Irregulars had somehow arranged access to the military checkpoints for refreshments – very civilised!

P1050156The Irregulars at rest….not a common sight  

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Look who I found, East Lancs LDWA get everywhere!

P1050158Residents really make the effort here

P1050161   Fiddles, Uillean Pipes, English Concertina, Guitar – a Dutch / Irish Ceilidh Band! 

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Back to Nijmegen

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P1050166 Spot the Piper!

image Actual distance: 39.7km

Day 3, The Day of Groesbeek…

…and another 5am start:

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I’d arranged to meet up with The Irregulars at 5am, but as an organised group they were rushed through the start and were away by 5am. I was an ‘also ran’ and had to queue, it was 5.20am by the time I got moving. I didn’t see them all that day.

P1050172 Malden

P1050174 She’s got almost as many melodeons as me!

P1050176 The Cheshire Constabulary abroad

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P1050182 Granddaughter on C-F Melodeon, Grandma on Cajon

P1050184P1050186P1050193P1050198P1050202  Lithuanian Customs Contingent in green T-shirts

P1050207 Vespa (?) with trailer

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P1050211 And at the end of the day, two beers – because one is never enough.

 

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 Actual distance: 39.7km

Day 4, The day of Cuijk

My (successful) attempt to get through the start gate as early as possible in order to catch up with the Irregulars meant I had to be up and about at 3.30am :-(

P1050212Even at such an early hour there were already loads of walkers ready to go

The event is very much a 100 mile party, but the last day really is something – everyone is out for a good time, spectators and walkers alike:

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How anyone can look so happy at such a ridiculous hour is beyond me!

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The British Dutch Walking Fellowship (BDWF) and The Irregulars are somehow related and they tend to get involved in joint ventures such as Vierdaagse. This tie-up allows them various advantages, including access to the military checkpoints which offer food, drink, medical facilities. And toilets. There seem to be a number of groups affiliated to the BDWF. Members of the groups need to stick together on the walk to enjoy the advantages. Losing group members can be a headache for the group leaders, but not for this group:

P1050228BDWF Pipe Major gathering his followers

P1050230P1050231The Irregulars on the move again

Of all the towns and villages on the route, Linden is the most spectacular when it comes to doing spectacular….almost outdoing Nijmegen itself:

P1050246Entering Linden

P1050248     Irregulars posing

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And that was only just over half-way through the day’s march, there was more to come.

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Jean leading the Irregulars

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P1050278Choral entertainment on the route 

The route had already crossed the River Maas once, now it was time to re-cross it. There was a slight technical problem: the absence of a bridge. The Dutch military came to the rescue, as they do each year, by constructing a temporary crossing. I wasn’t able to get a decent shot of the bridge so took the one below from the Vierdaagse website:

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P1050290 And just after the bridge – a tea stop! Damned civilised.

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P1050301On the final few kilometers St Annastraat is temporarily re-named ‘Via Gladiola’ – gladdies are handed out to all the walkers as they walk towards the finish.

imageAbove photograph from De Gelderlander

See if you can spot the beer truck!

P1050325 image This photograph from http://www.nufoto.nl/tag/via%20gladiola/

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Actual distance: 42.4km

Total distance for the week: 161.8km

More details maps can be viewed here.

If you’re not totally sick to death of looking at my photographs you can see more here.

101 miles in 4 days isn’t excessive – although 101 miles on tarmac takes it’s toll. I wore a fairly new pair of New Balance 854 running shoes with new Sorbothane Double-Strike Shockstoppers to quite literally cushion the blow. Other than being a bit knackered at the end of each day I didn’t suffer any adverse effects.

Some may sneer at a walk that’s mainly on tarmac and that the route is generally flat – but they’re generally the folk who haven’t taken part in Vierdaagse. It’s a huge amount of fun, ask anyone who’s taken part. Don’t knock it until you’ve tried it!

Next year is the 100th and I’m going to apply again. Numbers are limited to 46,000 and I suspect that the event will be over-subscribed, I’m just going to have to cross my fingers!

Practicalities

Me and the Mrs JJ (who didn’t take part in the event) flew from Manchester to Schiphol with KLM @ £76.00 each. We each took hand luggage (included in the ticket price) and one large case which cost around £14 extra.

Accommodation for Vierdaagse is available at reasonable cost but I wanted my own place. We rented a lovely house about a mile from the Nijmegen start / finish point at around £350 for the week. I rather hope that house is available next year.

A hire car + insurance cost £145. It’s quite practical to travel by train but a) Mrs JJ isn’t overly mobile so a car was almost essential, b) The cost of two train tickets, Schiphol > Nijmegen return, was the same as the car hire. The added convenience of having a car for the week made it a no-brainer – so a car it was.

The event itself costs around £60 to enter.

Training: not a lot. I put in half a dozen brisk 20 mile walks and some 10-14 mile run / walks in the 6-7 weeks before the event but that was about it. Interestingly I weighed myself before going to Holland and found that I weighed an unhealthy 13st. I wasn’t overly concerned, walking 101 miles in fairly quick time should shed a few pounds. Imagine my dismay when I returned home, I weighed 13st 3lbs! 6-8 weeks after the event I was down to 12st 6lbs. You tell me!

Walking pace: Quite variable. I averaged around 2.95mph, finishing each day in around 8hrs 30mins – including rest stops.

Food & drink: Butties, water and 500ml of SIS drink each day. There’s loads of food available en-route – that’s probably why I gained 3lbs in the week!

Clothing: obviously depends on the weather. I wore shorts & a wicking T shirt each day. A sun hat was needed this year, the weather was glorious. I wore running shoes with new sorbothane Shockstoppers on my feet. A carried a windproof and a very light waterproof, just in case.

That’s about it. I had a cracking week, met up with lots of old friends, enjoyed Dutch hospitality and I didn’t drink too much beer at all. Although Mrs JJ came along she wasn’t able to get out much although she sat out at the front of ‘our’ house on the last day and really enjoyed the spectacle of 46,000 lunatic walkers, all wearing manic grins, marching to the finish line.

That’s it until 2016 then.

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Sunday 4 October 2015

3rd October 2015, Tally-Ho! from Sparrowpit

Those fine fellows of the Cheshire Hare & Hounds Tally-Ho! decreed that today’s run would be from the Wanted Inn, Sparrowpit.

The pub has had a chequered history in recent years, it’s been closed a few times – that’s hardly unusual these days. Some years ago it was called the Devonshire Arms, this must have been confusing as there’s a Devonshire Arms just down the road in Peak Forest. The pub’s owners put the place up for sale but there were no takers – it became known locally as the ‘Unwanted Inn’. When it eventually sold it was renamed the ‘Wanted Inn’. Obviously.

Anyroadup, between 1pm and 2.30pm groups of runners of a variety of abilities (and disabilities) set off running from the pub following a sawdust trail left by Mssrs Potter & Stanton, trail-layers to the nobility. Or something like that.

The weather was really good for running, dry and chillier than of late, although plenty warm enough to be running in shorts. It was a bit misty which didn’t do a lot for the views, but what we had was good.

I ran with Whitworth, neither of had done much running of late so we were well matched. As ever we chatted loads and consequently lost trail a few times. No problems with the general quality of the trail, it was well laid and generally easy to follow….although there were a couple of occasions when I thought the trail-layers were running low on sawdust – a couple of times the trail became decidedly thin.

P1050649Whitworth of the poorly knee, and equally poorly heel

The anti-clockwise route headed south from the pub before turning east to Peak Forest, covering some of the ground used by the Club’s annual Steeplechase. The terrain was typically limestone: well drained and easy on the eye.

The word on the street is that quite a lot of the route will be used for next year’s Point-to-Point.

P1050651Wilson leading the Medium Pack   

From Peak Forest the route turned north, passing to the east of Eldon Hill and then on to Windy Knoll where Rushup Edge came into view – in spite of the murk and mist.

P1050653McHarry leading the Fast Pack

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Because of the poor visibility the views into the Vale of Edale weren’t brilliant, although looking back towards the east was clearer:

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Eastwood had caught us up earlier and we trotted along together for a couple of miles until around Lord’s Seat on Rushup Edge when he pulled away.

P1050662Whitworth chasing Eastwood along the ridge

P1050664Rushup Edge is used as a launch site for people intent on hurling themselves into oblivion

P1050668The stony track along the top played merry-hell with Whitworth’s poorly heel.

    P1050669At the Pennine Bridleway the trail turned south for the last mile or so back to Sparrowpit.

P1050671  Part of The Pennine Bridleway

P1050673The route suffered from an excess of stiles, some were seriously broken, like this one just to the north of Sparrowpit, others were really on passable by those with very long legs. Like Whitworth.

P1050675The Wanted Inn, Sparrowpit 

Thanks to Potter and Stanton for laying such a good trail, they should be allowed out more often. Even more thanks to Brian for agreeing to run round with me, providing excellent conversation….and, er, buying me a pint at the end :-)

Shame about the food at the pub: a single course consisting of a small portion of stew with hardly any vegetables but bulked out with bread and not very good dumplings. It really wasn’t up to much – not when the club was charged £10 a head. If the Club runs from there next year I’ll duck out of the ‘meal’.

Bathing & changing facilities at the pub were pretty dreadful too: the tin bath was outside the back of the pub. I’m just glad it wasn’t cold & rainy. On the plus side the sight of 15 – 18 hairy-arsed runners stripping off probably gave the local ladies something to laugh at.

The beer was good though.

Where we went:

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9.4 miles with around 1400’ of ascent.

Viewranger stuff here – although it shows the route as just short of 9 miles it’s actually 9.4 miles. I think it’s down to the way Viewranger uses waypoints to calculate distance.

More photographs here.

Saturday 3 October 2015

Friday 2nd October 2015, Another Curry Walk

Manchester to Bury, and no curry

The Plan was hatched a couple of weeks ago: Rick and I fancied trying out Bury’s Katsouris eatery and it seemed a good idea to incorporate a little walk into the visit.

Considering that this was early October, the weather was just glorious. Although it was slightly chilly and a little murky first thing it soon warmed up. Walking in shorts proved to have been a good choice.

The Gang of Six convened at Manchester’s Castlefield Tram stop and wandered off through the back streets of Manchester and Salford in search of the River Irwell.

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We left the tarmac of Salford’s Crescent to descent to the bank of the River Irwell:

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P1050610Carrying Manchester’s drinking water all the way from Thirlmere without the aid of any pumping stations, gravity does all the work.

P1050613 P1050616L > R: Sue, Martin, me, John, Rick, Rob 

A compulsory brief sit down was called for coffee and a piece (each!) of Martin’s (equally compulsory) rather wonderful chocolate fudge :-)

Then we carried on walking:

P1050617 Dismantled railway line that once ran from Clifton Junction to Bury

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One of the Irwell Sculpture Trail’s sculptures. Actually the ONLY sculpture we saw.

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Onto the towpath of the disused Manchester, Bolton & Bury Canal

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A couple or three miles before Bury I spotted a fast walker coming up behind, it was Phil who Rick & I know from Lymm Folk Club. Phil had intended to meet us at the start of the walk but missed us by minutes. He set off, without a map and with only a vague idea of our route – and he caught us up.

What was even more surprising was that he knew t’other John. They used to run together – which is how I first met John. A small world!

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P1050639Leaving the canal, we then once again followed the River Irwell – although only for a short distance. Half a mile later we arrived at our destination, Katsouris….and lunch. Most of the meals were good, Rick and I got the short straw: a tiny meal that took ages to prepare. Having checked out Trip Advisor it seems our experience was very common. That’s such a shame, the Katsouris in Manchester is really excellent.

P1050642 (Late) Lunch at Katsouris, Bury

Martin, Sue and John went off home after eating. Rick, Rob, Phil and I wandered the back streets of Bury, guided by Phil, to the Trackside Bar at the Bury station of the East Lancashire Railway. It’s essential that walkers maintain a good level of hydration, so we rehydrated enthusiastically. It was good.

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The Beer Menu of The Trackside Bar

P1050643P1050645Phil and Rob showing off their Tinner’s Rabbits

After a couple of beers each it was time to go home – although not for Phil, he was staying in Bury for a concert. And more beer.

We had a brilliant day out, the route was so much better than I had expected. Although the weather helped enormously, the good company was the icing on the cake. Thanks folks, we’ll plot another Curry Walk soon.

Where we went:

Manchester to Bury Curry Walk 

Around 12.8 miles with norralot of ascent.

More photographs here.

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